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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.